The Tung Lung Fort was built in the 17th century to guard the island against pirates. The walls measure 3 metres thick, Chris swears... but I was less impressed. There's plenty of centuries-old buildings - perfectly preserved! - where I come from. Some old churches in Ilocos have walls so thick, Japanese bombs hardy left scars. So whilst Tung Lung Fort is considered a heritage site, I didn't really get it.
"That's it?" I complained, looking at the ruins.
"Let's at least go all the way around so we get to see all of it..." Chris encouraged.
So we did a lap around the fort. And I was still convinced that it was a non-event.
The area surrounding the fort, though, is spectacular. No wonder it's popular with campers, never mind if the surfaces are so uneven and hostile, it's impossible to pitch a tent perfectly - much less lay flat on a sleeping mat.
The rocky lowlands are held together by a thick blanket of pandanus. The midlands are covered with pine trees. The highlands are dramatically streaked with tears of iron oxide.