ON THE RIGHT TRACK

// OTARU, HERE WE COME. //

HOLIDAY ON ICE

The ice sculptures were  prepared days before the actual opening of the Sapporo Snow Festival. I couldn't have imagined that blood would ooze out of fish that have been been cryogenically frozen. It was downright creepy - and a buzzkill, besides.

Compared to the snow sculptures, the ice sculptures were unabashedly sales-sy. There was branding all over the place. The city was barfing snow and logos. 

I was all iced out. Too much snow, too much cold, too much Sapporo beer... My central nervous system was vibrating from Hokkaido winter fatigue.  

My only recourse was to get stupid.



 

THIS IS NOT A CANDY LOLLIPOP.

A sausage lolly... It was the strangest thing ever, I thought. I just had to try it. The Japanese, they dream up the weirdest stuff. And funnily enough, they work. Which makes me wonder: Is this something that truly nobody else has thought of before???

It was such a no-mess way of eating a long sausage - and sharing it, besides. We all had a bite. It was tasty. I think I must have had three sticks of sausage lollies... I couldn't remember much more of what I ate or what the hell else happened that night. Ice, snow and Sapporo beer tend to have that effect.

Good thing, too. At least I forgot what a fool I made of myself.

And then I saw the photos. 

 

Too Much Snow

Nightfall adds new dimensions to the Sapporo Snow Festival.

Firstly, it's a more adult affair. The kids are in bed, excited squeals are noticeably absent and the pathways are satisfyingly less congested. You can actually take unobstructed photos of any sculpture that catches your fancy. You may also two-step, do-si-do or cartwheel in the snow without hurting anybody else except yourself. Honestly.

Secondly, exactly because it's a more adult affair, the throngs are palpably more intoxicated. The kiosks that sell alcohol are more popular; the food stalls, less so. The grounds are so cruisy! You can feel people's incredible sexual energy straining to break free underneath repressive layers of clothing. It's sub-zero, but it's hot.

Finally, there's the magnificent drama of articial light. Every curve, corner and sinew of the monolithic sculptures seem to undulate as light shifts imperceptibly into shadow. The sculptures themselves seem to breathe. They inhale, exhale, pant and gasp for air.

But, maybe that's just the hot Belgian cherry beer.

Eating & Drinking In The Snow

Hot Belgian Cherry Beer

// SAPPORO FOOD FESTIVAL //

The only thing more massive than the snow sculptures was the food festival complex. It was a world buffet. Mongolian, Brazilian, Indian, Southeast Asian, Swiss, Belgian, Cantonese, Mexican, Japanese of course - everything! I wanted to shovel everything into my mouth just to try everything once. I have limited space in my tummy, but certainly, that didn't stop me from trying.

Everything was yummy. Food is just so dependable in Japan, no matter what the cuisine, no matter where you end up. People clearly have a high set of expectations, highly evolved palates, access to the best available ingredients and equipment... Sapporo, itself, though not remarkably pretty, seems to have enough moxy to attract some pretty darn good culinary talent.

I felt like a snowball at about 3pm. I had chocolate dipped bananas coming out of my mouth, clams coming out of my ears, noodles coming out of my nose, hot Belgian cherry beer spilling out of my esophagus...

It was multiple food orgasm.

I wanted to feast forever.